Rwanda, In 100 days, an estimated one million Tutsis and moderate Hutus were systematically butchered by the Interahamwe army. This memorial honors the estimated 250,000 people buried here in mass graves and also has an excellent exhibition that tries to explain how it was that the world watched as the 1994 genocide unfolded. This is an intensely powerful and moving memorial to which you should dedicate at least half a day.

The informative audio tour (US$15) includes background on the divisive colonial experience in Rwanda. As the visit progresses, the exhibits become steadily more powerful, as you are confronted with the crimes that took place here and moving video testimony from survivors. If you have remained dispassionate until this point, you’ll find that it will all catch up with you at the section that remembers the children who fell victim to the killers’ machetes. Life-sized photos are accompanied by intimate details about their favorite toys, their last words, and how they were killed.

The Kigali Genocide memorial concludes with sections on the search for justice through the international tribunal in Arusha as well as the local gacaca courts (traditional tribunals headed by village elders).

Upstairs in the Kigali Genocide Memorial is a moving section dedicated to informing visitors about other genocides that have taken place around the world and helping to set Rwanda’s nightmare in a historical context.

After you’ve absorbed the museum displays of the Kigali Genocide Memorial, take a rose (by donation) to leave on one of the vast concrete slabs outside that cover the mass graves. There’s also a wall of names, a rose garden, a gift shop, and a pleasant cafe serving good coffee, lunch buffets (RWF 2500), snacks, and juices that are an ideal place to reflect and gather yourself before facing the outside world again.

Remembrance and Learning Tours across Rwanda can also be arranged through the Kigali Genocide Memorial.

It is located in the northern Gisozi district of the capital, which is a short moto-taxi ride from the center (about RWF1000).